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MartinPotter
United Kingdom
38 Posts |
Posted - 18 Aug 2004 : 13:59:39
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I can't find any info anywhere on this site that deals with rig set up. i.e shroud pin positions and rig tension. Couls anyone give me a clue please.
Ta
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PGuignabaudet
United Kingdom
97 Posts |
Posted - 22 Aug 2004 : 00:29:02
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Check the Tuning page in the Hint & Tips section.
Regards, Pascal |
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MartinPotter
United Kingdom
38 Posts |
Posted - 22 Aug 2004 : 12:34:34
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Thanks Pascal.
I'm generally following the advice, but when I sailed a L2K, there was more specific advice about shroud pin positions, rig tensions (expressed in lbs/inch) etc.. I am assuming that this doesn't exist yet for the Stratos.
Also, when I pull on lots of jib tension, the mast is pressing on the gate. Is this normal?
Thanks
Martin |
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jonsallis
7 Posts |
Posted - 23 Aug 2004 : 15:54:31
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At the standard settings from Laser . You will point as well as the best.The mast will hit the gate and eventualy it will crack the GRP.The rig tension depends on many variables , but the rule of thumb is The leward shroud should just go slack in the gusts when going to windward. You can drop a hole on the shrouds in heavy weather when you,r over powered. |
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Pete
49 Posts |
Posted - 23 Aug 2004 : 22:40:31
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The mast gate is the metal band that prevents the mast toppling backwards after you've stepped it but before attaching the forestay??? Yes?
If so, how can increasing the jib tension cause the mast to press against this? This pulls the mast AWAY from the gate... no?
I set my shrouds at 3rd hole down as per the rigging manual and haven't changed them. Max tension on the jib pulls the mast so it just touches the front of the U section in the thwart(?)
please correct the terminology ;-)
dumb and confused..... |
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Pete
49 Posts |
Posted - 23 Aug 2004 : 22:44:25
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one more thing....
you say "drop a hole in heavy weather"
By 'drop' do you meantighten or slacken?
the rigging manual says tighten a hole in light winds (ie a hole further DOWN) and loosen one or two holes in windier weather.
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jonsallis
7 Posts |
Posted - 24 Aug 2004 : 09:10:24
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The lower shrouds control the maximum mast bend at gooseneck/deck level,on the standard settings the front of the mast will hit the GRP at the front of the slot in the foredeck.To get any more bend you have to pull back on the mast by lowering the main shrouds by 1 or 2 holes this is for winds F4 and up.Jib tension is as hard as you can pull! |
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RickGroesbeck
USA
6 Posts |
Posted - 30 Aug 2004 : 17:01:00
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I understand increasing rig tension in F4 winds. But I'd like to get ideas on depowering the top of the mainsail in gusts. Pulling on the boom vang (kicker) seems to flatten the entire sail and even increase the bend in the top batten. 1. Do I need to ease jib wire tension to allow more bend in the mast when pulling on the boom vang? Some classes will ease the jib wire tension and then pull the boom vang to bend the top of the mast. 2. Do I need to increase the angle on the spreaders in heavier wind? |
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DBurnett
38 Posts |
Posted - 31 Aug 2004 : 13:05:57
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I personally would not start playing with jib halyard tension... just leads to a saggy forestay and a mast that can now flex about a lot.. One stratos at the club tried this... mast came out of its socket and disaster followed. Set the rig tension ASHORE.. for the prevailing conditions. ( I personally never change mine!) more pre-bend for windy days as this will open up the leach at the top of the sail. When beating, and the breeze picks up, pull on the cunningham. Again, this opens the leach by pulling the centre of effort towards the mast. I tend to keep the kicker on pretty tight until it gets up to ballstic.. and dump sheet to depower the main. This means you NEVER cleat the main and constantly play the sheet to keep the boat driving. If the breeze picks up further, dumping kicker will allow air to spill out of the sail, thus depowering it. At this point, bang in a reef and keep the sail shape optimal. It still drives OK with a reef in at 30+ knots of breeze.
Interestingly, many modern high performance boats such as the 49er have gone for relatively soft flexible masts, which adjust themselves far better than faffing around with shroud tensions on the water. Ever looked into a well set up 505 ?? string everywhere! So my theory is to leave the mast set with a reasonable tension for light to medium conditions and let the mast flex off power by itself. Seems to work OK. We are very stiff up the beat in heavy weather, easily powering past RS200's, but it takes effort to keep the main driving. Remember, the mainsheet is the gas pedal... if it's all going pear shaped... ease off the gas!
Cheers
Dave |
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